Phobjikha Bhutan
Phobjikha at 2,900 metres is one of Bhutan’s few glacial valleys and a unique conservation area in the Black Mountains National Park. Accoding to legend, its two streams called Black and White Waters - one languid, the other vavacious, symbolise a snake and a boar who once raced through the valley. The snake lost and to this day, the rice he wished for cannot grow in Phobjikha. Only a scattering of hamlets betrays the human presence on the edge of vast wetlands, the winter grounds of black-necked cranes.
Elders and monks looked up to the sky, eager to spot the auspicious return of the Thrung Thrung or ‘long necks’. Pearly grey with black neck and tail and just a touch of red on the head, these elegant birds steeped in Bhutanese folklore are close to every heart. As winter approaches they fly down from Tibet to remote valleys in the kingdom, the largest 350 strong colony settling in Phobjikha after the harvest. The whole valley celebrates their return in a traditional festival.
When the first snows come to Phobjikha, many villagers move to lower slopes. Those who remain do not disturb the birds but visitors are expected to keep their distance. There is also a Crane Information Centre. In this lovely valley, raising awareness and encouraging eco-tourism go hand in hand.
Electricity is not available apart from solar panels as power lines could endanger the cranes.
Outside, cattle grazed in lush meadows, undisturbed by the line of trekkers vanishing through dwarf bamboo and juniper on their way to Gogona. The golden roof of Gantey Gompa glistened in the distance, on a knoll strung with prayer flags at the head of the valley. Five hundred years ago, the great master and saint Pema Lingpa had predicted that a monastery would be built on this spot. In 1613, Pema Trinley, his grandson and first reincarnation, erected the original temple, and it was extended by his descendant. named ‘gangtey‘, or ‘hilltop’, it is among the largest Nyingma gompas in Bhutan and continues to spread the teachings of this most ancient school of Tibetan Buddhism.
